Pages Navigation Menu

Home Additions and Expansions

What Every Homeowner Needs To Know About Rainwater Collection Systems

Posted by on Nov 10, 2015 in Uncategorized | Comments Off on What Every Homeowner Needs To Know About Rainwater Collection Systems

When it comes to water conservation and sustainable living, rainwater collection is a great process. If you’ve been considering rainwater collection for your house, it’s time to evaluate your gutters. The gutter system on your house is a key component to your collection structure, so you need a system that’s going to work for you. Here are a few tips to help you make the most of your gutter selection so that you can start a successful rainwater collection system. The Basics of Rainwater Collection Rainwater collection is a process of gathering the water runoff from your roof. The water is great for most any purposes other than drinking and cooking. You can’t consume the water collected in your rainwater system, but it will limit the additional demands on your drinkable water. Additionally, you could incorporate a purification system to make it safe for consumption. One of the best things about rainwater collection is that it gives you water that you can use for lawn watering, car washing and other similar uses even when your neighborhood is under a drought restriction. How to Set Up Rainwater Collection Target Your Downspouts – One of the most important things to do for successful rainwater collection is to ensure that you have downspouts pointed appropriately. Make sure that each section of your roof has a properly-positioned downspout that will flow directly to your collection system. Sometimes, the easiest way to test it is to have someone dump a bucket of water in various areas of your roof so that you can be sure that water flows freely from gutters to the downspouts so that every section of the roof is covered. Establish Your Tank – You’ll need a solid, durable cistern to collect your rainwater in. Think about how much water you’re going to want to collect, and select a tank that’s larger than you think you’d need. That gives you room for overflow or major storm issues. Add a wire mesh screen over the top to protect your water supply from insects and other contaminants. You’ll also want to add an air tap and set up an overflow system to prevent backflow after heavy rains. A filter and pump system will allow you to keep any finer particles out of the water you use while being able to pump water from the cistern easily. Protect Your Gutters – If you want to collect the rainwater that flows through your gutters, you have to keep the gutters clean. Leaves, debris and sticks can block up the gutter, keeping the water from flowing. Not only that, but your gutters can become a target for insects, and you’ll want to keep them out. The best way to do this is by installing fine mesh covers over the top of each gutter. Avoid Contaminants – Another key component of rainwater collection is a flush diverter. These tools are installed immediately before the rainwater collection reservoir. The tank of the flush diverter will fill up first, gathering the first running water off your roof. This is important, because the first running water off the roof will be full of contaminants that it flushes off the roof, including bird waste and other debris. Once the diverter fills up, the remaining water will flow to your collection system....

read more

Put Down The Wrench And Drain Cleaner: 2 Uncommon Ways To Avoid Large-Scale Plumbing Problems

Posted by on Oct 20, 2015 in Uncategorized | Comments Off on Put Down The Wrench And Drain Cleaner: 2 Uncommon Ways To Avoid Large-Scale Plumbing Problems

If you are like most people, you might assume that all is well as long as your drains move water out of that sink, bathtub, or shower pan. When your home floods or your drain clogs one day, you might assume the problem stems from a simple issue like a broken component or a hair clog—instead of a deeper issue. Unfortunately, all the home repairs and drain cleaner the world won’t help if your main drainage lines are damaged. Here are two uncommon ways to avoid plumbing problems, so that you can fend off extensive, difficult-to-repair damage: 1. Have Your Water Pressure Checked Does your water rush out of your taps whenever you turn it on? Although it might help you to spray off those dinner dishes, excessive water pressure can actually destroy your plumbing from the inside out. Extra pressure can put strain on your plumbing fixtures, damaging valves and leading to leaks. High water pressure can also create leaks in pipe junction points, prompting mold growth, wet rot, and even disastrous home floods, meriting a call to an emergency plumber, like those at Plumb Pros Plumbing Heating & Drains.  Believe it or not, high water pressure can even make your toilets run without being used, wasting water and running up your water bill. Since extra water pressure can make it hard for you to control the flow of water into your sinks and bathtub basins, you might end up filling sinks too full, which can make it seem like your drains are taking forever to move that water—when in fact, you just overfilled the basin. To avoid problems, hire a professional plumber to check your water pressure. To stay on the safe side, indoor residential water pressure should be between 30 and 80 psi. Unfortunately, some municipal water suppliers set the city water pressure as high as 150 psi, sending that water gushing into your main lines. To keep pressure in check, professional plumbers can install special pressure regulators on your main water supply line. These regulators don’t require any special maintenance, and they can be adjusted in the future if your pressure needs change. 2. Mind Your Trees Your landscaping and plumbing lines might seem completely separate, but if your trees grow out of control, those systems can become desperately intermingled. Tree roots start out small and then grow in length and girth, punching their way through dense soil, cement foundations, and even main water lines. Root damage can cause slow-moving drains, marshy landscaping, gurgling noises, or even plumbing fixtures that are prone to overflowing. Fortunately, you might be able to avoid these issues by taking these preventative measures: Plant A Barrier: To keep roots from growing too close to main sewer lines, consider planting a barrier inside the soil. Metal or wood barriers should be planted 6 to 12 inches deeper than sewer lines and run vertically to help to redirect root traffic. However, if you don’t want to spend the time constructing a large, complicated wood or metal enclosure, you can always plant a chemical barrier. Chemicals like potassium hydroxide and copper sulfate discourage root growth and release slowly, providing you with years of protection.     Remove Large Trees That Are Planted Too Close: Another great way to prevent root damage is to remove...

read more

How To Prevent Tragedy In The Storage Hoppers In Your Workplace

Posted by on Sep 29, 2015 in Uncategorized | Comments Off on How To Prevent Tragedy In The Storage Hoppers In Your Workplace

If you are the safety manager for a facility that uses hoppers to store food items, such as flour and sugar, it’s important that you have a safety program for workers to implement as they work around and above the hoppers in your facility. In 2013, a worker fell into a sugar hopper and died of suffocation due to the sugar engulfing him. Here are a few ways you can prevent this type of tragedy in your workplace.  Install fall protection equipment above the hoppers The openings at the tops of the hoppers should be protected to prevent workers from falling in. This can include devices such as guardrails and safety platforms for the workers to stand on while they perform tasks. Safety harnesses should be attached to the guardrails so the workers can utilize them in case they need to reach into the hoppers to break up clumps.  Install emergency escape openings at the bottoms of the hoppers Hoppers are configured in a funnel-like shape, which can be dangerous to anyone who gets trapped inside them. If possible, install emergency escape hatches near the bottoms of the hoppers so anyone trapped inside can escape easily. While opening the escape hatch will cause the materials inside the hoppers to also fall out, escape hatches may be the only way to prevent death for anyone who falls into the hopper.  To do this, the contents of the hoppers will need to be drained so a steel fabricator can install an emergency escape hatch. Even though this will likely cause downtime in your facility’s operations, it can protect your company’s bottom line in the long run by preventing unnecessary fatalities.  Install weight sensors to detect unexpected changes inside the hoppers  Install weight sensors that will set off alarms if the weight inside the hoppers increases or shifts unexpectedly. An audible alarm can alert others that someone may be trapped inside a hopper. A flashing light located on top of the hopper with the unexpected weight increase or shift can help workers identify which hopper needs immediate attention.  The alarms can be configured to automatically shut down other equipment that is used during operation within your facility. For example, in a food manufacturing facility, hoppers are designed to expel a certain amount of goods at various intervals; however, this can displace the goods inside the hopper, which can cause someone inside to become trapped further. Having the equipment shut down when weight discrepancies are recorded will help prevent this problem.  Conduct regular training sessions for all employees, including temporary workers  Train your employees on a regular basis while paying close attention to those who are new on the job, people who have a temporary worker status, and workers who do not speak English as their first language. Do not allow anyone who has not received the appropriate training to work above or around hoppers. All temporary workers must receive training prior to their first day on the job.  Identify those who may have a language barrier and provide them with the training materials in their first languages. If necessary, hire a translator to work with you in making sure the workers understand the importance of safety in your workplace.  The training sessions should comply with OSHA standards and include information regarding hazards...

read more

Why A Direct-Vent Fireplace Might Be The Right Choice For Your Home

Posted by on Sep 15, 2015 in Uncategorized | Comments Off on Why A Direct-Vent Fireplace Might Be The Right Choice For Your Home

Having a fireplace in your home may be something you have always wanted, but you might not have pursued getting one because of the costs involved. Wood-burning fireplaces can be one of the most costly types to install, but you could save a lot of money if you are willing to settle for a gas-powered fireplace. A direct-vent gas fireplace is the most economical type of fireplace you can place in an existing home, and this might be the right choice for you. Why Are Direct-Vent Fireplaces So Affordable? One of the main reasons you can get a direct-vent fireplace for an affordable price is from the fact that it does not need a chimney. Building a chimney can cost around $60 to $95 per foot, which can add up to thousands of dollars. In addition, you will have ongoing expenses to keep the chimney clean and running properly. A direct-vent fireplace is a device that operates on gas, and because it does not need a chimney, you can place a direct-vent fireplace almost anywhere in your home, as long as it is installed on an exterior wall. You may also be able to place one on an interior wall, if the contractor can find a way to vent it through the roof of your house. Most direct-vent fireplaces cost between $1,200 to $3,200, and you may be able to get it hooked up for as little as $600. This is by far cheaper than most other types of fireplaces. In fact, installing a normal wood-burning fireplace will probably cost $7,000 to $10,000, but it could cost more depending on how fancy it is. How Do Direct-Vent Fireplaces Work? A direct-vent fireplace uses gas to create heat in your home, and this can be propane or natural gas (whichever you have). The contractor will have to install a gas line to the fireplace in order for it work, and there must be electricity near the device because it needs electricity to operate. A direct-vent fireplace also has a vent that extends outside of your house, and this vent is vital for the system. The fireplace itself is completely enclosed, and it uses the vent to pull in air from the outside. This air is heated with gas, and the vent also allows the gases created in this process to escape out. Through this process, the heat created radiates through the glass door on the front of the fireplace. What Benefits Do These Offer? When you compare a direct-vent fireplace to a wood burning or traditional gas fireplace, there are several key benefits that stand out. Some of these include: Less mess – Having a wood-burning fireplace can look pretty, but it can also be messy. It is messy from the sparks and ash that fly out of the device and from the wood you must carry in your house for the fireplace. Safer – Whenever you burn wood in a house, there are safety issues to consider. Even if you have a traditional gas fireplace, you may have safety concerns because it uses a chimney. Chimneys get dirty over time, and dirty chimneys can cause fires.   Efficiency – Even though a direct-vent fireplace uses gas, it will still operate very efficiently. Because of the way they work, direct-vent...

read more

Troubleshooting And Thawing A Frozen Air Conditioner

Posted by on Aug 25, 2015 in Uncategorized | Comments Off on Troubleshooting And Thawing A Frozen Air Conditioner

If your air conditioner seems to be on the blink and isn’t cooling the air in your home, there may be a simple reason. Sometimes, a layer of ice builds up on the air conditioner coils. While it may seem like that would produce even cooler air in your home, it doesn’t work that way. If your air conditioner freezes, it loses the ability to filter and cool the air inside your home. Here’s what you need to know to troubleshoot the problem and restore your AC to good working order. Why does ice form on the air conditioner? There are three common reasons why your air conditioner may freeze. The most common is restricted air flow. That means clogged filters or vents may be preventing the air from your home from circulating over the evaporator coils adequately. Other common reasons include low refrigerant and a faulty blower. While they each require a different remedy, they all require thawing the coils first. How do you know what’s causing the freezing? Before you thaw the coils on your air conditioner, you need to assess whether the freezing is due to airflow issues, low refrigerant or a mechanical problem so you will know what to do after the coils thaw. Blower Malfunctions Check that the blower on your air conditioning unit is functioning. If the blower is working, check for airflow problems. Airflow Obstructions Check your filters and vents for any debris or obstructions. This includes curtains or household furnishings that may be obstructing air flow into the vents in living areas. It also includes dirt and debris clogging your unit from the outside. Change or clean the filters and remove any objects that may be contributing to reduced airflow. Refrigerant Levels If the blower is working and there are no obstructions to the airflow, it is likely that your air conditioning unit is low on refrigerant. Call your HVAC contractor from a company like Aggressive Mechanical Contractors if you suspect this is the problem. How to you thaw air conditioning coils?  Thawing the coils is not difficult, but it may take several hours.Thawing needs to be done regardless of the underlying cause of freezing. Disconnect the air conditioning unit from the electrical source. Apply gentle heat to the coils with an hair dryer set on the warm setting. Using the hot setting may crack the coils. Slow, warm heat will speed the thawing without posing a risk to the unit. Alternately, you can allow the air conditioning unit to sit until the ice is melted. This may take several hours, depending on the outside temperature and the amount of ice built up on the coils. Wipe down the coils with a soft cloth to remove excess water and moisture when the ice melts. Plug the air conditioning unit in and set the thermostat controls to fan only to allow air to circulate and melt any remaining ice. Set the thermostat to cooling once the ice has melted, providing you have identified and corrected any airflow issues. Your air conditioner should now blow cooled air into your home. Cautions: Never use a sharp object or hammers to remove ice from your air conditioner. This can cause damage to the unit. Always disconnect the unit from the electrical source while removing ice or...

read more

How to Properly Size & Make a Pair Of Winding Bars for Installing Garage Door Torsion Springs

Posted by on Aug 10, 2015 in Uncategorized | Comments Off on How to Properly Size & Make a Pair Of Winding Bars for Installing Garage Door Torsion Springs

The replacement of a worn or broken torsion spring on a garage door is a task that demands close attention. One of the most critical parts of replacing a torsion spring is the winding of the spring. The winding process requires the use of a pair of specialized tools known as winding bars. These tools can be purchased, but they can also be inexpensively made at home. Below is how to properly size and make a pair of winding bars for use when installing a torsion spring: Tools and materials needed Inside calipers Steel rod in appropriate diameter Steel ruler accurate to sixteenths of an inch Tape measure Scratch awl Hacksaw with new blade Bench vise File Electrical tape Step-by-step procedure 1. Determine the inside diameter of the winding bar sockets—At each end of the torsion springs, two devices known as cones work together with the spring to store and transfer energy to operate the garage door. One cone, the stationary cone, is fastened to a fixed mount and serves as an immovable mount for the spring. At the opposite end, the winding cone is designed to both transfer energy to a rotating shaft that lifts and lowers the door. The winding cone is also equipped for the user to utilize winding bars during the process of spring installation. The winding cone contains four sockets, evenly spaced around the circumference of the cone, and these are where the bars are inserted during winding. To make a winding cone that is safe to use, the exact diameter of the socket should be measured if it isn’t known. A pair of inside calipers can be used for this procedure; simply insert each tip of the calipers into the socket and adjust the calipers until the tips just touch the inside walls of the socket. Next, compare the gap between the caliper tips to the distance on a steel ruler. Most winding cone sockets are one-half of an inch, but you may encounter other sizes, especially on older doors. 2. Purchase a steel rod in the appropriate diameter—Once you know the exact diameter of the winding cone socket, your next step is to buy a smooth steel rod that is the same diameter. Home improvement and hardware stores carry steel rods in their stock, and you should be able to locate the correct size. Each winding bar should be 18 inches in length, so buy a rod that is at least 36 inches in length. Be sure to buy only rods made of steel; aluminum, copper or any other non-ferrous metals are not strong enough to withstand the forces placed upon them and could permit the rod to suddenly bend or break during use. In addition, never use a threaded rod for winding bars, as they aren’t able to properly grip the inside of the socket. 3. Make your winding bars—After buying the steel rod, your next step is to cut it down to size. With a tape measure, mark off 18 inches and make a small scratch with an awl. Fasten the winding bar in a bench vise and use a hacksaw to cut across the mark at a perpendicular angle; it is important that the cut be made exactly at a 90-degree angle to the bar, as any deviation from...

read more

5 Ways to Freshen Your Kitchen Cabinets Without a Full Remodel

Posted by on Aug 6, 2015 in Uncategorized | Comments Off on 5 Ways to Freshen Your Kitchen Cabinets Without a Full Remodel

If you want to update your kitchen but do not have the time or money to invest in a full remodel, there are several small things you can do to make your cabinets look and feel new. A partial remodeling project, such as refinishing your wood cabinets or installing new countertops can cost much less than a full remodel while making your entire kitchen look new.  Refinishing  Refinishing is a low-cost option to refresh the look of your cabinets if you have solid wood cabinets. Refinishing consists of sanding the surfaces of the doors and faces of your cabinets and adding new stain or paint. This can make worn cabinets look new again. It also allows you to change the color of your cabinets to match new kitchen decor.  If you want to continue using your kitchen during the remodel, the doors and drawers of your cabinets can be removed and your contractor can work on them remotely. Then, only the faces of your cabinets will need to be sanded and stained or painted at your home.  Refacing  If the doors of your cabinets are made from a material other than wood, such as a laminate, you may have to reface your cabinets rather than simply refinishing them. Refacing involves removing the doors and replacing them with new doors, often with an upgraded material such as solid wood. You will also have to re-skin the faces of the cabinets, which involves removing the exterior layer and adding wood veneer or specialized paint to the surfaces.  Even if you have wood doors, refacing may be a better option than refinishing if you want to drastically change the look of your kitchen. New doors can have new new designs engraved in them or a different handle placement than your current doors and drawers.  Upgrade Your Countertops  The color and material of your countertops can drastically change the look and feel of your kitchen. While laminate countertops are a popular economical choice, you may want to explore how your kitchen will look with stainless steel, wood, or marble countertops. If your cabinets are in good condition and you like the appearance of the doors and finishes, then you might want to invest your remodeling money in a high-quality, unique countertop.  Upgrade the Interior If you like the appearance of your cabinets and countertops, you can still refresh the feel of your kitchen by adding custom features to the interior of your cabinets. A lazy Susan can make it easier to organize your cabinets and reach your rarely used items. A drying rack installed in your upper cabinets can give you more counter space while your dishes dry. Also, electrical outlets hidden inside drawers or cabinets can create a place to charge personal electronics or plug in seldom used kitchen appliances.  Customize Your Shelving  Another simple way for you to upgrade the usability of your cabinets is to customize your shelves to better fit your small kitchen appliances, dishes, and cookware. Raising or lowering shelves can make them more comfortable for you to use. You may also want to install vertical dowels or spacers to create individual compartments for storing baking dishes and pans. This will allow you to get the items you need out of your cabinets without having to lift out and...

read more

Alternative Ways To Supply Electricity To Your Home

Posted by on Jul 21, 2015 in Uncategorized | Comments Off on Alternative Ways To Supply Electricity To Your Home

Most people feel beholden to power companies to supply electricity to their home. This is often because the method seems tried and true. For a monthly fee, a company pumps electricity into your home, no questions asked. It almost seems like there’s no other way to go about receiving electricity. This couldn’t be further from the truth. There are a variety of different ways to go “off the grid” so to speak, and provide your home with alternative forms of electricity. This brief article will serve to inform you about a few different ways. 4 different methods will be discussed throughout: solar power, wind energy, microhydro energy and conservation. Solar Power When it comes to alternative forms of generating electricity, solar power is the first method that usually pops into a person’s head. For good reason, too: solar power is incredibly effective and quite inexpensive, to boot. The solar option comes to a person for a small fee. Panels, an inverter, and solar powered batteries are usually what are used to start up a solar powered home. Although the fee for such an option usually sounds a bit expensive, it generally pays for itself after anywhere from 7 to 15 years, as the monthly fees associated with paying a monthly power bill are much greater. Many people fret about the variance of the amount of sun that they receive, believing that their area is much too shady or is prone to overcast weather. Solar powered homes need very little light to power themselves, however, so those living in conditions that nominally seem less than ideal should have no problem. Wind Powered Electricity Wind powered electricity may be an option for you, although, unlike the solar powered option, which does not require an ample amount of sunlight for maximum effectiveness, wind powered electricity does, in fact, require that you regularly receive a hefty amount of strong winds. The wind powered option operates via a turbine, which looks like a giant, elevated fan that sits on your lawn. There are a variety of different options from which you can choose, the most common ones being a 7,000 Kw turbine and a 10,000 Kw turbine. The 10,000 Kw turbine option is not exactly the most utilitarian for town or city dwelling, so most individuals are delegated to using the 7,000 Kw option, although you will often see the 10,000 Kw option powering rural homes and farms. Microhydro Electricity The microhydro option is perhaps the least known of the most prominent forms of alternative electricity sources. Microhdydro power is power that is generated through falling or flowing water. Microhydro can use a variety of forms of water, everything from water in its liquid state to steam, to power turbines that generate electricity throughout your home. This is an incredibly cost effective method, but it requires an ample amount of space and a kinetic source of energy, meaning that this method is often reserved for people who live in quite rural areas. Conservation Conservation is not necessarily an alternative form of electricity, but it is an alternative to how we use electricity. No matter how you receive your electricity, it is best to conserve it to the best of your abilities. Turn off lights when you leave your house, install dimmer switches, and use...

read more

5 Projects That Make Your Exterior Drain Tile More Effective

Posted by on Jul 13, 2015 in Uncategorized | Comments Off on 5 Projects That Make Your Exterior Drain Tile More Effective

An exterior drain tile, also known as a french drain, is a basic form of protection against dampness that can cause cracks in your foundation as well as mold and mildew in your basement or crawl space. While an exterior drain tile helps by directing groundwater away from your home, there are many circumstances when a drain tile must be combined with other features to fully protect your foundation. If you live in a particularly wet area or get a high amount of rain each year, you may want to combine your exterior drain tile with one of these other five protective features.  Waterproof Coating  There are several types of waterproof coatings that can be applied to the exterior of your foundation or basement. These are usually sprayed or brushed directly onto the concrete, but they can also involve layers of plastic sheeting that are secured to your home.  When you are considering a waterproof coating, it is important that you understand the difference between waterproofing and dampproofing. The processes are similar, but they involve different materials. Generally, for residential buildings, you will desire waterproofing, but if you live in a dry climate, dampproofing might be sufficient and save you money.  Waterproofing works well with a drain tile because the drain tile takes the stress of large amounts of water away from your building and the waterproof layer protects your concrete from small amounts of water and condensation.  Roof Gutters Drain tiles are meant to keep groundwater away from your home. However, you also need a way to keep surface water away from your home when it rains. The easiest way to do this is with roof gutters. Your roof will likely be the largest impermeable surface near your house, and as such, it is the biggest source of surface water that can erode the top layer of your foundation. Gutters move the water that collects on your roof away from your home, protecting your foundation.  Generally, roof gutters should drain about six feet away from your home. Some people opt to integrate the downspout of their gutters into their exterior drain tile. However, this can quickly overload your system and result in ruptures, blockages, and early replacement.  Ground Gutters A ground gutter is installed at the top of your exterior drain tile. This immediately diverts surface water away from your home instead of allowing it to drain through your tile and reach the lower pipe. This should extend the longevity of your drain tile while protecting your foundation. It is a good addition if your yard slopes towards your home and you notice puddles around your drain tile when it rains.  Intelligent Landscaping  You can use basic landscaping techniques to prevent groundwater and surface water from reaching your home. You will want to plant shrubbery 3-6 feet away from your drain tile. These plants will absorb some ground water. However, if they are too close, their root systems can destroy your drain tile.  Additionally, you should make sure that your lawn slopes away from your home. If your house is at the bottom of a slope, you may want to build up a small mound about 6-10 feet from your home that diverts surface water away from it.  Well-designed Sidewalks and Driveways  Sidewalks and driveways can dump water...

read more

Make Your Own Water Jet Cleaner To Clear Slow Drains With A Garden Hose

Posted by on Jul 7, 2015 in Uncategorized | Comments Off on Make Your Own Water Jet Cleaner To Clear Slow Drains With A Garden Hose

Slow drains that are either partially or completed clogged can be a continual source of exasperation for homeowners. While there are a number of chemicals and devices on the market for treating slow drains, some of them are unsafe for homeowners to use and many others just don’t work. However, the good news is that homeowners can safely and effectively treat slow drains by using a simple, water jet cleaner they can make in just a few minutes. Below is how it can be done: Tools and materials you will need Barbed hose fitting – you will need an adapter with a standard 3/4-inch female garden hose thread on one end and a  3/8-inch barbed male fitting on the opposite end. PVC tubing (3/8-inch inside diameter) – this tubing is available in transparent PVC, and you will need 6 feet. Hose clamp (3/4-inch) Rubber hose washer Garden hose Screwdriver Wire brush Adjustable pliers Small bucket or container Step-by-step procedure 1. Attach the barbed male fitting to the hose – the first step in putting together your drain water jet cleaner is to screw the barbed hose fitting on to the male end of a standard garden hose. Since you will be using this device inside your home, you want to be sure the connection is watertight and leakproof.  First, clean the male threads on the garden hose with a wire brush to remove soil, mold, corrosion or other residue. Next, place a rubber hose washer into the space between the barbed fitting and the garden hose. Screw the barbed hose fitting onto the male garden hose threads until the connection is handtight; if it leaks, tighten it one-quarter of a turn with a pair of adjustable pliers. 2. Attach the PVC tubing to the barb – once you have attached the fitting to the hose and determined the connection to be watertight, then push one end of the 3/8-inch PVC tubing onto the barb. Be sure to push the tubing completely down to the end of the fitting.  Next, pass the hose clamp over the end of the PVC tubing, and slide it into position over the tubing and barb. Hold the clamp in place, and tighten it with a screwdriver until the clamp grips the barb firmly. Be sure it is tight, but don’t cut the hose with the clamp. 3. Prepare the drain for cleaning – remove the stopper or grate over the top of the slow drain to provide better access to the drain pipe. Do not run water or you may obscure the drain. Clear out any standing water with a bucket or other container. 4. Position the water jet cleaner – attach the female end of the water hose to a spigot. Position the cleaner above the drain and slowly insert the tubing down into the drain pipe. Push the tubing as far as possible down into the pipe but avoid binding or crimping the tube. 5. Turn on the spigot – while holding the tubing in position in the drain pipe, ask a helper to slowly turn on the spigot. Start moving the tubing up and down within the drain pipe so that it can begin clearing the clog. If the water in the tub or sink basin becomes too high, then ask...

read more